Wildlife in Kyle

Wildlife in Kyle

The Value of Wildlife

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wildlife is closer than you think. You do not need to leave Kyle to enjoy nature. Our parks, preserves, and waterways are home to unique wildlife, and sometimes your own backyard is too. The Kyle Parks and Recreation Department’s Conservation Division celebrates local biodiversity and helps residents connect with the nature around them.

Research from fields such as economics, psychology, criminology, and medicine shows that society benefits from positive interactions with native habitats and wildlife.

Employees tend to be happier, healthier, and more productive when companies maintain natural areas on their properties. Patients recover more quickly when they have views of nature from their windows. People are also more drawn to cities that feel natural and welcoming, rather than overly manicured.

We are lucky to be part of a community that cares about wildlife. To keep Kyle thriving for generations to come, everyone needs to do their part. We hope you’ll find helpful information here to guide you in making a difference.

Creating a Wildlife Habitat!

For wildlife habitat to be complete, it must provide food, water, shelter, and space to raise young. While the specific needs within these categories can vary depending on the species you want to attract, these four basics are essential for all wildlife.

Native plants are those that naturally belong to this area and are the best way to feed local wildlife. Around Kyle, there are two main ecological regions divided roughly by a line just west of I-35. To the west is the Edwards Plateau ecoregion, and to the east is the Blackland Prairie ecoregion. While this dividing line isn’t exact, it’s a helpful guide. Knowing which ecoregion you live in is important when choosing plants that will provide the right native food sources for your wildlife habitat.

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Many nurseries and garden centers at home improvement stores mainly offer exotic plants. To find native plants, look for nurseries that specialize in them. The Native Plant Society of Texas has created the Natives Improve and Conserve Environments (NICE!) Native Plant Partner program to help homeowners locate native plant suppliers. To prepare our landscapes for climate change over the next 75 years, Kyle Parks and Recreation’s Conservation Division has complies a list of commercially available native plants from a designated “target zone”. These plants thrive in a 24-county zone that includes Hays County and extends southward and westward. This list can be downloaded here (insert link to the most recent updated version of the list). Many native plants that are not on our compiled list may not be widely available in commercial nurseries. However, native plant enthusiasts often grow and sell these species at spring and fall plant sales throughout Central Texas. To find a sale near you, simply search for “Texas native plant sales.”

Shelves with bird houses and bird feeders

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Many people enjoy watching wildlife at feeders, but when native plants provide year-round food such as leaves, seeds, fruits, and nectar, supplemental feeding is not necessary and can sometimes be harmful or even illegal depending on the method. Feeding wildlife with man-made feeders can also artificially increase animal populations which may lead to overcrowding and disease outbreaks. For these reasons, man-made feeders are generally not recommended. However, the choice to use feeders is a personal decision.

Before installing a feeder, consider the following:

  1. Can you meet your goal by planting native plants? This is the easiest and healthiest way to support wildlife.
  2. Is the feeding method allowed? For example, feeding deer is prohibited in some cities by city ordinance, so make sure your plan follows local rules.
  3. Are you ready to commit to proper feeder care? Maintaining a feeder means keeping it clean and providing fresh food. Many birds become sick or die each year from seeds contaminated by fungus or diseases. One sick bird can easily spread illness to many others through feeders. For more details on feeder diseases, visit the Cornell Lab of Ornithology at feederwatch.org.

Got sick birds?

A bird on a bird feeder

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If you notice sick birds at your feeder, stop feeding immediately. Clean up all spilled seed and bring all feeders indoors for at least one week, though two weeks is better. This helps spread out the birds and lowers the chance of disease spreading. Replace your seed supply since it may be contaminated with fungus.

To disinfect feeders, take them apart and boil them in water if the material can handle it. You can also use a dishwasher on the hot setting. Another option is to wash feeders by hand using soap and hot water or a dilute bleach solution of no more than one part bleach to nine parts water. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and let the feeders dry completely before refilling with fresh seed.

It is helpful to have a routine of rotating feeders. Clean and disinfect one while the other is in use. Then swap them so you always have a clean feeder ready. How often you clean depends on the feeder type and weather. Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned twice a week during hot weather while other feeders may be cleaned every two weeks. Always watch for signs of disease to protect the wildlife you enjoy.

Unintentional Feeding

Avoid unintentionally feeding wildlife. Keep barbecue grills clean, remove spilled bird seed, and do not leave pet food accessible. These habits can attract native animals like raccoons and coyotes, which may become nuisances, as well as non-native rodents such as house mice, black rats, and Norway rats.

Providing water for wildlife can be as simple as a birdbath or as involved as a backyard pond with a wetland filtration system. No matter the size of your water feature, there are important things to consider to keep it safe for wildlife.

Clean Water

Just like maintaining feeders, you need to keep your water feature healthy for wildlife. This does not mean using chlorine, which kills many small creatures that are important to a healthy aquatic system. However, stagnant water with lots of algae can breed mosquitoes that spread disease to both humans and wildlife. Healthy water should be clear, like a clean stream, not green or cloudy. There are many products available to clean pond water mechanically or chemically, but nature does a great job cleaning water on its own. It is best to mimic natural wetland functions by using a living bog filter in your water feature. This method creates the healthiest environment for all kinds of wildlife.

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Wetland plants filter pond water before it is released back into the pond below.

If you install a birdbath, be sure to spray it out and replace the water every two to three days to prevent waste buildup and reduce the risk of disease. For ponds, install a pump that recirculates all the water every one to two hours over a waterfall or through a fountain. This keeps the water moving, preventing stagnation and attracting wildlife with the sound of flowing water.

You can improve water quality even more by circulating water through a bog or wetland filter. These filters naturally remove excess nutrients while supporting useful native plants. There are many ways to build a bog filter. For more details, simply search online for “building a bog filter” to find helpful guides to create one that fits your water feature.

Barley Bales

If your water remains green and cloudy, you might need to add more plants or increase the size of your bog filter. Another helpful option is to add a barley bale in late winter to prevent excess algae growth in the spring and summer. Barley bales come in different sizes, so search online for “pond barley bales” to find the right one for your pond. As the barley bale breaks down, it naturally helps control algae.

Water Feature Safety

When installing a water feature safety is very important, especially to eliminate drowning risk for children. It’s wonderful for kids to experience nature, but we must keep them safe. If you add a pond, treat it with the same safety concern as a swimming pool. Using decorative fencing or planted barriers can help keep children from accidentally falling in.

Also, think about wildlife safety when designing your water feature. Many pre-formed ponds have smooth, steep sides that can make it hard for animals to climb out if they slip in while drinking. To help, design your water feature with gently sloping sides so animals can get in and out easily. Liner ponds offer great flexibility for this. If you have a steep-sided pre-formed pond, you can make it safer by stacking stones along the edges in a stair-step pattern. This lets wildlife enter and exit without trouble.

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The pond edge on the left poses a danger to wildlife, whereas the pond edge on the right offers a safe area for animals to enter and exit with ease.

Mosquito Concerns

Moving water and dragonflies can help reduce mosquitoes, but for extra protection, you might consider using BT dunks (wafers) and native mosquito fish (Gambusia affinis) in your water feature. BT dunks contain a natural bacterium called Bacillus thuringiensis that targets mosquito larvae without harming other wildlife. Just drop the dunks into your water following the instructions, and they will do their job. You can find BT dunks by searching online or visiting a local organic garden center.

Mosquito fish are native to Central Texas and feed on mosquito larvae. These small fish grow to about 2 to 3 inches long. While big chain pet stores usually don’t carry them, independent fish stores or online sellers often do. If your water feature has plants and some algae and is not overly maintained, mosquito fish can usually find natural food. You can also feed them fish flakes if needed.

Using mosquito fish is a better choice than introducing non-native species like goldfish or guppies, which can escape into local waterways and cause ecological problems. Native mosquito fish help control mosquitoes and are better for the environment.

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Left: BT dunks.  Right: Native mosquito fish.

Exotic plant species pose a serious threat to local ecosystems. Some invasive plants can take over entire habitats, disrupting the natural balance and causing lasting harm. A well-known example is Giant Salvinia. Originally sold for water gardens and aquariums, it escaped into the wild and has caused major damage to local waterways. Other invasive plants like water hyacinth, purple loosestrife, parrot feather, and water lettuce have also harmed ecosystems across the region.

Unfortunately, these plants are still often sold by pond and aquarium suppliers. If they escape from backyard ponds, they can quickly spread and cause problems. To help protect our natural habitats, please avoid buying or introducing exotic plants into the environment.

Exotic parrot feather (Myriophyllum aquaticum) invading a natural wetland.

Native aquatic plants bring many benefits to your water feature. They provide food and shelter for visiting and resident wildlife, help oxygenate and filter the water and control algae growth. Some underwater plants that do well here include hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) and eelgrass (Vallisnera americana).

Floating-leaf plants grow from pots underwater, with their leaves resting on the surface. Examples include white water lily (Nymphaea odorata), spatterdock (Nuphar lutea), American pondweed (Potamogeton nodosus), and Illinois pondweed (Potamogeton illinoisensis). Adding these native plants helps keep your water feature healthy and supports local wildlife.


White water lily (left) and spatterdock (right) can be used instead of exotic species.

Emergent plants should be placed in pots submerged underwater, so their leaves and flowers rise above the surface. Native species in this group include pickerel plant (Pontederia cordata), arrowhead (Sagittaria lancifolia), and lizard’s tail (Saururus cernuus). These plants add beauty to your water feature and provide essential habitat for wildlife.

Pickerel plant is a great native emergent species for ponds.

Wetland-edge species thrive in areas where their roots remain moist but are not fully submerged. These plants prefer consistently wet soil, often described as having "wet feet." They grow well in elevated pots positioned mostly above the waterline or in bog-like conditions where the soil stays saturated. Native examples include cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), fall obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana), spring obedient plant (Physostegia angustifolia), spider lily (Hymenocallis liriosome), and bushy bluestem (Andropogon glomeratus). These species help create a lush, naturalistic border around your water feature while providing valuable resources for local wildlife.

Bushy bluestem in winter color growing naturally along a stream bank.

 

Ligated furrow bees sheltering in bushy bluestem (left) and beneath an upright prairie coneflower (right).Ligated furrow bees sheltering in bushy bluestem (left) and beneath an upright prairie coneflower (right).

Providing shelter through natural means is one of the most effective ways to support wildlife. Planting a variety of native understory plants beneath tree canopies increases the habitat value of those shaded areas. These shade-loving plants offer essential cover for nesting and protection from predators. Many also produce nectar, seeds, berries, and foliage that serve as important food sources. A diverse mix of native species creates a more resilient and balanced ecosystem, supporting a wide range of wildlife in

your outdoor space.

 

Once your habitat is established, thoughtful management is essential to keep it safe and supportive for wildlife. Even with the best intentions, certain landscaping practices can unintentionally harm the very species you are trying to help. Many native invertebrates, like butterflies, moths, and bees, rely on fallen leaves and spent flower stalks for shelter during the winter months. By being aware of seasonal cycles and adjusting your maintenance routine accordingly, you can help these vital pollinators and other creatures survive and thrive year-round.

 

(Left) Fallen leaves on the landscape. (Middle) Spent purple coneflower stalks. (Right) Purple coneflower stalk trimmed and left standing for a native bee nesting site.

Raking, mulching, or removing fallen leaves can unintentionally destroy crucial habitat for pollinators that homeowners have worked hard to attract. Likewise, cutting back spent flower stems at the end of the growing season may remove the next generation of pollinators overwintering inside them. To support these beneficial insects, leave fallen leaves in place and cut flower stalks to leave a minimum height of 18 to 24 inches remaining. This provides essential nesting sites in hollow stems and protective cover in the leaf layer. For more information, explore the Xerces Society’s conservation campaigns, including Leave the Leaves and Save the Stems.

...should or shouldn’t we provide them?

Artificial nest structures, such as birdhouses (left) or bee tubes (middle and right) require ongoing care and attention to ensure they don’t inadvertently encourage disease, attract predators, or harbor parasites.

 Deciding whether to offer artificial nest boxes is much like choosing to install feeders. In a well-designed habitat filled with native plants and natural shelter, most wildlife will find the resources they need without additional help. However, many people enjoy offering nest boxes to support—and observe—the birds and other species they care about.

If you choose to provide nest boxes, it’s important to recognize that they come with responsibilities. Just like feeders, nest boxes must be maintained properly to ensure they are safe and beneficial. Regular cleaning and monitoring are essential to prevent the buildup of parasites, diseases, or problems with predators.

What to Avoid

While decorative birdhouses with perches may look appealing, they are not ideal for native birds. In fact, perches can attract invasive species like the English (house) Sparrow, which compete aggressively with native birds for nesting sites. Native species don’t need perches, and in many cases, simpler is better.

To support the birds you want to attract, select nest boxes specifically designed for those species. Features such as the entry hole size and internal dimensions should be appropriate for the target species and help deter unwanted visitors.

If invasive birds such as English Sparrows or European Starlings begin using your nest boxes, you may need to remove the box temporarily or actively manage it to protect native birds.

Lastly, choose a nest box that is easy to open and clean. Well-constructed boxes include a hinged panel or removable side for periodic maintenance. This not only makes your job easier but also ensures a healthier, safer environment for the birds that use it.

A well-designed bird box that is easy to clean.

When providing nest sites for native bees, it's important to avoid using treated wood or small wooden blocks with numerous holes. A chamber less than 6 inches deep will primarily produce male bees, as females lay male eggs at the back of the hole and female eggs at the front. If the hole is too shallow, like those found in bee blocks made from 4x4 lumber, the female won’t have enough depth to produce a balanced brood.

Additionally, clustering many holes in a small area can increase the risk of predators and parasites, allowing their impact to be magnified. Over time, nesting blocks used year after year also become infested with mites, which can significantly hinder breeding success.

To address these issues, use a structure that is at least 6 inches deep and holds tubes for nesting chambers. Once the bees emerge, the tubes can simply be discarded, along with any mites or diseases that may have accumulated. The following year, place a box with new tubes in a different location to help prevent the buildup of pests and pathogens.

An even better option is to drill several holes (deeper than 6 inches) in cut sections of natural limbs and scatter them throughout your landscape. These will naturally decompose over time and disperse brood chambers thus reducing the concentration of parasites and disease. This method supports a more natural, self-sustaining system for native bees while minimizing the need for artificial intervention.

You can make native bee nesting chambers by drilling holes in cut limbs and placing them in your landscape.

To create these natural bee nesting sites, you will need a drill and several long drill bits of varying diameters (1/4", 5/16", and 3/8"). The size of the hole will determine which species of bees will use it, so it is important to have a range of sizes. To help gauge the depth, place a piece of tape on each drill bit at the 6.5" mark. Carefully drill a few holes that are at least 6 inches deep (preferably deeper) in sections of cut limbs, making sure to vary the diameters. Once the holes are drilled, scatter these sections throughout your landscape. Over time, the wood will naturally decompose, providing a safe and sustainable nesting site for native bees while reducing the risk of disease and parasites.

The Impact of Artificial Lighting

Artificial lighting has a significant negative impact on wildlife in many ways, as highlighted by the National Wildlife Federation (source). Some nocturnal species actively avoid lit areas, while others, such as sea turtles and insects, are often drawn to artificial lighting with fatal consequences. Additionally, artificial lighting disrupts firefly mating behaviors and interferes with bird migration patterns. However, not all lights are equally disruptive. Bright lights that produce heat and emit a neutral white color in the 3500-4000 Kelvin range are particularly attractive and harmful to night-flying insects. To reduce this impact, opt for LED lights that emit light in the 2000-3000 Kelvin range, producing a warm white or amber glow. By reducing unnecessary nighttime lighting on our properties, we can create safer environments for wildlife and help preserve natural ecosystems.

There are several ways to provide security around your home while minimizing artificial light pollution. Solar-powered motion-sensing lights are a great option, as they require no wiring and can be placed anywhere. These lights can be set to shine for a short period when motion is detected, providing security without continuous lighting. Additionally, you can install motion-sensing light bulbs in your porch or driveway sconces, which only illuminate when motion is detected. This approach allows the area to remain dark most of the time while still providing the necessary security.

Solar powered motion-sensing lights shine only when needed.

Additionally, small rechargeable wireless security cameras can be mounted anywhere around your home and operate using infrared light, which is invisible to humans. Several affordable camera systems are available on the market today. These cameras monitor specific areas and send alerts, complete with video footage, to your phone if motion is detected. This way, you can have peace of mind and enhanced security without overloading your landscape with artificial light.

Small, affordable wireless security cameras provide security and limit light pollution.

Free-Ranging Pets Harm Wildlife

To prevent coyotes from becoming too comfortable around humans, hazing is often an effective technique. Learn how to safely haze a coyote by watching this video from Texas Parks and Wildlife Department.

 

 

To avoid conflicts with coyotes, keep cats and small dogs indoors, and avoid leaving pet food outside overnight. Secure all trash receptacles and do not rely on fences to exclude coyotes. A 6 foot privacy fence is insufficient to keep coyotes out, as they are skilled climbers. They can hook their front paws over the top and use their back legs to propel themselves over the fence. To prevent this, ensure your fence is at least 6 feet high and equipped with a “fence roller” at the top to discourage coyotes from scaling it.

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A coyote can easily defeat a 6-foot fence by hooking its paws on the top (left), then bringing its back legs up to propel itself over (middle).  To prevent this, install a fence roller across the top (right).

The most effective way to keep coyotes out is to use a vertical wrought iron fence topped with a roller. This design prevents coyotes from getting a grip with their front paws and denies them a solid surface to push off with their hind legs, making it nearly impossible to climb. Fence roller systems are available for purchase commercially, or you can build your own. Just search online for “fence rollers” to find DIY instructions and materials.

Several birds of prey found in the Kyle area, including Great Horned Owls and Red-tailed Hawks, are large and strong enough to take small pets or poultry. Some, such as Coopers Hawks, are highly skilled at catching smaller birds at feeders. These types of conflicts can typically be addressed by creating physical separation between predators and their potential prey, either through fencing or by adjusting the time of day animals are allowed outside.

If you keep poultry, it is essential to provide them with a fully enclosed roosting area that offers protection from all predators. To keep pets safe, indoor living is best for cats. Small dogs should only be let out into securely enclosed spaces or kept close to you during bathroom breaks to help deter attacks from above.

Carolina Chickadee at a feeder.

If you notice a bird of prey hunting at your bird feeder, it’s important to understand that the feeder is still supporting birds. They are just higher up the food chain. However, if this is a concern, there are steps you can take to reduce predation.

Try placing feeders near vertical structures like swing sets, poles, or dense shrubs, or consider surrounding the feeder with wire mesh. These obstacles limit a raptor’s ability to make a fast, direct approach. Since birds of prey depend on speed and surprise to catch their prey, anything that slows their flight path and gives songbirds a chance to escape can help reduce the likelihood of predation.

Birds of prey may also occasionally find their way into warehouses, often by accident. This typically happens when they are chasing prey, such as small mammals, birds, or insects, near the opening of large retractable doors. In the heat of the chase, their momentum carries them inside, where they may then struggle to find their way back out.

One effective method to encourage their exit is to scatter bird seed just outside the open doorway. As smaller birds gather to feed, the raptor may resume the chase and, once again carried by momentum, follow them back outdoors.

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Cooper’s Hawk in a nest.

During nesting season, it is common for birds to defend the area around their nest by swooping near anyone they perceive as a threat. It is important to understand that this behavior is temporary and will stop once the young birds have fledged and left the nest.

If possible, give the nest plenty of space and avoid walking close enough to trigger defensive behavior. If avoidance is not an option, carrying an open umbrella can provide protection by creating a barrier between you and the bird, should it swoop toward you.

 

 

If you discover an uninvited guest setting up camp where it should not be, it is best to contact a professional wildlife removal service. Learn more below.

If you discover an uninvited guest setting up camp where it should not be, it is best to contact a professional wildlife removal service. These experts know how to humanely relocate animals and help prevent future visits. They can do this work safely, reducing the risk of bites or exposure to disease. One of the most effective and humane methods is to first ensure there are no young animals present. Then a one-way door can be installed, which allows the animal to leave on its own but prevents it from returning. Once you are certain the space is clear, the entry point can be sealed. This keeps the animal in its natural territory, and your home remains critter-free.

Trapping and relocating wildlife is not recommended.

Contrary to popular belief, trapping and relocating wildlife is not a humane or recommended solution. For one, removing an animal usually just makes room for another one to move in from the surrounding area. Also, animals that are dropped off in a new place often face serious trouble. Other animals in the area have already claimed that territory, which can lead to fights. If the animal is not taken far enough away, it will try to return to its original home and may get injured or killed while crossing roads. Even if it does make it back, if the original den site has not been properly sealed, the problem will start all over again. The best and kindest solution is to exclude the animal from the space where it should not be, while allowing it to stay within its own familiar territory.

An exotic black rat (Rattus rattus).

Some non-native rodents, like the black rat (Rattus rattus), brown rat (Rattus norvegicus), and house mouse (Mus musculus), can cause serious problems for native wildlife. These species impact native animals in two ways. First, they directly compete for food, eating bird eggs, seeds, and berries that many native species rely on. Second, they create an indirect problem known as "guilt by association." When rats become a nuisance, people often blame nearby grasslands, wetlands, or woodlands, assuming these habitats are the source of the infestation. As a result, these valuable habitats may be removed or degraded, which harms the native species that depend on them.

These exotic rodents are known as commensal species, which means they thrive by living close to humans. Research from the United States [link to US research and our own educational documents] and elsewhere [link to Buenos Aires paper] shows that these rodents prefer to live in and around human structures, not in natural habitats.

While it is nearly impossible to eliminate these species, good sanitation practices can go a long way toward keeping their numbers in check by reducing available food sources. Here are some helpful tips:

  1. Clean up any spilled bird seed and avoid leaving feeders or pet food out overnight.
  2. Keep outdoor grills clean and make sure trash can lids are tightly secured.
  3. Place new food scraps deep inside compost piles or use a rodent-proof compost container.

Simple actions like these can make a big difference in protecting both your home and our native wildlife.

Don’t Remove Native Food Sources

Native plants such as American beautyberry (left), inland seaoats (middle), and Mexican plum (right) provide an essential food source for many species of native wildlife. While it is very important to remove artificial food sources like pet food and table scraps to help control exotic rodents, the seeds and fruits produced by native plants should be left in place. Hundreds of native wildlife species rely on these natural foods for their survival. Removing native plants or their fruits to control rodent populations is misguided and can do more harm than good. Protecting and maintaining native plants supports a healthy ecosystem and helps our local wildlife thrive.

Controlling populations of exotic rodents requires coordinated, large-scale effort. The most effective approach is to work at the neighborhood level with a sustained, targeted campaign to remove these pests. Still, individual homeowners can take important steps to keep rodents in check around their own property.

The two most effective strategies are:

  • Removing access to food – secure garbage, clean up fallen bird seed, and store pet food indoors or in sealed containers.
  • Blocking access to shelter – seal cracks and holes in buildings, sheds, and other structures to prevent nesting.

Traps and baits can be used to reduce existing populations. However, baits are not recommended inside occupied buildings, because poisoned rats may die in walls or other hidden spaces and create serious odor problems.

Using Traps to Control Exotic Rodents

Traditional traps may or may not be enough.

Exotic rodents are cautious, and rats are smarter than many people realize. Traditional snap traps may catch a few individuals, but others can quickly learn to avoid them.

 

If you have one or two rats in a shed or garage, large snap traps from a hardware store are a good first option. Many people use peanut butter on the trigger plate, but some rats learn how to eat it without setting off the trap. Black rats, in particular, are attracted to fruits and nuts.

For best results:

  • Pre-bait the trap for a few nights without setting it so the rats become comfortable feeding there.
  • After that, add fresh bait and set the trap.
  • To reduce bait theft, secure the bait by wiring or tying small pieces of fruit or raisins to the trigger plate so rats can’t remove it without triggering the trap.

Use string or wire to attach pieces of fruit to the trigger plate if rats are taking your bait.

For larger indoor infestations, there are various traps on the market that will catch numerous rats or mice each night.  These “repeating” traps reset themselves and house captured rodents in a container to be disposed of later.  To locate a design suitable for your needs, just search for “repeating rat traps” online.

 

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